Heimlich Maneuver for Dogs

Sadly, it is not uncommon for a dog to choke because they  swallow things they shouldn’t, like toys and bones. If your dog is choking, he will start coughing forcefully, bulge his  eyes and paw at his mouth.

In order to save your dog’s life, there are several things to do:
• First, open your dog’s mouth and look for the object. Place one hand on the  upper jaw with your thumb on one side and the rest of your finders on the other side.
• With your other hand, push down on the lower jaw, keeping your index finger free to sweep back into the mouth.
• If you can see the object, remove it.
• If there are two of you one of you should hold your dog’s mouth open and the other look inside.

If that doesn’t work, and your dog is small, hold him upside down with his tail toward your face. Place your arms around his lower abdomen for 30 seconds while gently  swaying him.

If that doesn’t work, place your dog on his side on a hard surface, tilted with his head down and hindquarters up. If you can grab a pillow or rolled towel, put it under  his hindquarters just make sure the front part of his body is lower than his back.
• With a small dog, place one hand on his back to steady him and the other  under the center of the rib cage. Press in and up four to five times in a  thrusting motion.
• With a large fog, you’ll need both hands for the trust, so place both hands  beneath the rib cage, Press in and up four or five times.

If you don’t have time to place your dog on his side, you can stand or kneel behind  your dog. Grasp his body at the bottom of his rib cage. Grasp his body at the  bottom of his rib cage. Apply firm, quick pressure. Repeat two to five times.
Remember that once your dog stops choking, he may try and bite you.

A New Type Of Veterinary Center

Pet Health Hospital will be the first veterinary center and animal hospital of it’s kind to service the Las Vegas area.  This unique concept was developed by Dr. Mark Beerenstrauch in order to provide better animal care to his patients, reducing costs and improving the health situations of pets at the same time.  This is accomplished by applying the concepts of “preventive medicine” and “lifetime care” that are generally reserved for humans to animals.  “The body of an animal is affected by the same types of diseases, maladies, injuries and age-related problems that the human body is, so why not utilize the concepts that have assisted humans in prolonging our lives to animals as well,”  Beerenstrauch said.

Preventive medicine concentrates on keeping the body of the patient healthy in order to prevent the larger-scale problems that become associated with poor health.  Essentially, the concept is based on the idea that small preventive procedures at regular intervals over the course of a lifetime will keep the body healthier and stronger, giving the patient the ability to avoid larger maladies more effectively than weaker patients.  This form of prevention over the course of a lifetime will assist both the patient to avoid the larger diseases and health problems, but additionally will help the ones paying the bills to avoid procedures which are far more costly than small preventive procedures.

Keeping regular vaccination schedules and check-ups may cost a small visitation fee, but adding up the costs of these small procedures pales in comparison to the costs of large treatments that come about as part of emergencies.  A single operation to save a life might cost thousands of dollars, where regular vaccinations only costs a few hundred over a pet’s lifetime.  Through these types of regular maintenance, pet owners are able to avoid the larger bills many times, and potentially also avoid having to make grave decisions based on their monetary situation that they would not otherwise have to make.

Animal care has rarely been approached this way, as most people are not able to keep up with the routine maintenance of their animals as they do not understand when regular checkups should happen, or what to request at those times.  Pet Health Hospital has made these programs easy by mapping out the specifics of pet’s lives and the routine maintenance associated, and providing these plans to the patients.  From the day you bring your new puppy home until the end of his or her life, Pet Health Hospital can provide the plan that will keep their health as tip-top as it possibly can be.  While all large health situations can not be avoided, many can be prevented if a lifetime plan is followed.  Pet Health Hospital is bringing this concept to Las Vegas, and pets as well as their owners will enjoy a happier and healthier life as a result.

 

Spaying And Neutering In Pets

OVERVIEW

At any age, if your pet is intact (not spayed/neutered), it’s time to think about getting them fixed. What goes through your mind is probably whether it’s the right thing to do, or if they should stay as nature intended. What you need to do is consider the positive and negative sides of getting this procedure done before you can come to a well-thought out decision.

When an animal is neutered, they are “de-sexed”. Neutering animals controls their population, reduces or eliminates undesirable sexual behavior, and reduces or eliminates the chances of the animal getting certain diseases later in life, such as mammary cancer, prostate cancer, or pyometra (uterine infection).

The removal of the testicles in male animals is called castration. The sterilization procedure in females is known as spaying. Normally, in many veterinary clinics, they are referred to this way; a female is spayed and a male is neutered. A normal spay procedure consists of complete removal of the ovaries and uterus and is called an ovariohysterectomy. Both of these procedures are done under anesthesia and require surgical incisions.

Spaying/neutering is more often done when the pet reaches about six months of age. Early spaying/neutering is also performed safely by some veterinarians at 8 to 10 weeks old, usually in a shelter or rescue setting. Having this procedure done early is a great advantage in cases of pet adoption.

THE POSITIVE SIDE OF SPAYING

  • There is no risk of pregnancy.
    By breeding and allowing your pet to have litters, you are contributing to the already massive pet overpopulation problem. It can be more difficult to find new, reliable homes for the babies than you may think. If you intend on keeping the litter, it can be very expensive and time consuming. Consider the cost of vaccinations, parasite control, food, and toys. Also, down the line, you will need to spay/neuter to avoid future litters and inbreeding. Every new family member is going to need training and attention. Don’t forget that pregnancy always puts the mother at risk. The mother can have very serious complications during pregnancy and delivery. Even if everything goes right with pregnancy and delivery, they can develop problems during nursing, putting them and the litter at risk. All of this can be avoided with a simple spay procedure.
  • Your pet will be cleaner and calmer.
    Without a spay procedure, your pet will always have a natural, incessant need to seek out a mate. If this drive is gone, your female will no longer attract males or their aggravating advances and serenades. A stray, roaming male can also be dangerous. Spayed pets will also stop going into heat, which means they won’t have that bloody discharge for several days. This discharge can destroy carpets, beds, and chairs with stains. Usually, pets that are spayed are easier to get along with since they tend to be more affectionate and gentle.
  • Your pet will be healthier.
    Pets that are spayed tend to have fewer health problems and some risks are even eliminated. Since spaying removes the ovaries and uterus, the risk of ovarian cysts, pyometra (a uterine infection), and cancer of the reproductive tract is not an issue. Also, the risk of mammary cancer is significantly reduced if a dog is spayed before puberty.

THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF SPAYING

  • You pet will be sterilized.
    When you spay your dog or cat, they are sterilized and cannot become pregnant. With the massive pet overpopulation issue, literally millions of homeless, unwanted pets being euthanized each year, so this isn’t really a big problem.
  • It may cause weight gain.
    It is true that some animals may gain weight after being spayed. The solution is simple. If your pet begins to gain weight after the procedure, cut back on their food intake and increase their exercise.

THE POSITIVE SIDE OF NEUTERING

· There is no risk of your pet impregnating another.
By breeding and allowing your pet produce litters, you are contributing to the already massive pet overpopulation problem. Even if you are not the owner of the female, someone has to take on the task of finding homes for the new litter. If you intend on taking responsibility and helping out financially or even keeping the litter, it can be very expensive and time consuming. Consider the cost of vaccinations, parasite control, food, and toys. Also, down the line, you will need to spay/neuter to avoid future litters and inbreeding. Every new family member is going to need training and attention.

  • Your pet will be cleaner and calmer.
    Males that are neutered do not have that constant drive to seek out and serenade a mate. He also no longer has that added stress of needing to mark and claim territory, meaning urinating all throughout your home and yard. Neutered males tend to become quieter, less likely to roam (run away from home), and less likely to act aggressively and start fights. They are highly likely to become more gentle and affectionate as well.
  • Your pet will be healthier.
    A great positive aspect of getting your pet neutered is that they tend to live longer, healthier lives. The neutering procedure is the removal of the testicles and, without them, testicular cancer is not an issue. Also, the risk of prostate cancer is significantly reduced. Testicular implants are available if altering your pet’s appearance bothers you.

THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF NEUTERING

  • Your pet will be sterilized.
    If it is your intention to breed your animal, you should not neuter them.
  • His appearance will change.
    Your dog will look a bit different because he will no longer have testicles. If this is the only reason you are considering not neutering your pet, talk to your veterinarian about testicular implants.
  • It may cause weight gain.
    Some pets may gain weight after neutering. If you notice weight gain, simply cut back on his food and increase his activity to help reduce weight gain.

About 17 million dogs and cats are turned over to animal shelters every year. This number does not include** how many are turned into rescues as well! Out of every 10 animals in shelters, only one finds a home. This means that around 13.5 million dogs and cats have to be destroyed every year. This horrible tragedy is completely unnecessary. Much of this problem can be eliminated by a simple surgery. Spaying and neutering is done under general anesthesia and is relatively painless. By taking responsibility and getting their pets spayed and neutered, owners can help lower the number of unwanted and homeless dogs and cats that are killed every year.

Spaying And Neutering In Pets

Signs That Your Pet May Be Ill

QUESTIONNAIRE

Since our pets can’t tell us what is wrong, it’s up to you and your veterinarian to keep them healthy and monitor for any abnormalities.

General signs of a sick pet include: disorientation, weight loss, weakness, lethargy, lack of appetite, diarrhea, vomiting, unproductive retching, seizure, bloody urine, straining to urinate, difficulty breathing, persistent cough, pale gums, and difficulty or inability to stand. Since you are the one who knows your pet the best, often you can notice subtle early warning signs that others can’t. When noticing any of these symptoms, it’s best to take your pet to the veterinarian and have them examined just to be safe.

After you get to the vet office, your pet’s doctor will ask you many questions about the health of your pet. It will help to be ready to answer these types of questions:

  • How long have you had your pet?
  • Where did you get your pet (pet store, adoption center, breeder, previous stray)?
  • Do you have any other types of pets?
  • How old is your pet?
  • Has your pet had any previous illnesses?
  • Is your pet receiving treatment for any illness or disease?
  • What, if any, preventative medication is your pet currently on?
  • Has your cat been tested for Feline Leukemia or Feline AIDS?
  • Do you give your pet regular flea treatment?
  • Are any other of your pets ill?
  • Has he/she been vaccinated? If so, when? Which ones?
  • Have you brought any other pets into your home?
  • Have they done any activities recently, such as grooming, a trip to the park, or walking?
  • Does your pet spend more time indoors or outdoors?
  • Has your pet had his diet recently changed or a change in eating habits?
  • What brand of food do you feed your pet, how much and how often?
  • What kind of table scraps are given, how much and how often?
  • What kind of treats are given, how much and how often?
  • About how much water does your pet normally drink in a day?
  • Have there been any changes in water intake?
  • Have you seen your pet sneezing or coughing?
  • Have you seen or felt any bumps or lumps on your pet?
  • What brand of cat litter do you use and how often is the box cleaned?
  • Is your pet urinating normally?
  • Is your pet having regular bowel movements?
  • When is the last time they had a bowel movement and was it normal?
  • Have you seen any changes in weight, as in gain or loss?

After being asked general questions, your veterinarian will move on to more specific questions depending on the problem. Be prepared to answer all the following questions when either calling your vet or brining your pet in.

CONCERNING THE EYES

  • Have you noticed any decrease or increase in the production of tears?
  • Do the pet’s eyes seem cloudy, red, or bloodshot?
  • Has there been excessive discharge coming from the eyes?
  • Are the pupils of both eyes the same size?
  • Have you seen your pet pawing at their eyes or rubbing their face on the floor?
  • Has your pet been squinting?
  • Do your pet’s eyes seem to be protruding or sunken in?

CONCERNING THE EARS

  • Have you noticed any ear swelling or discharge?
  • Are your pet’s ears droopy when they are normally erect?
  • Are the ears inflamed and red?
  • Do you notice any odor to the ears?
  • Is your pet rubbing or pawing at the ears?
  • Have you seen your pet shaking their head a lot?
  • Has your pet shown signs of pain or crying when you scratch or rub your pet’s ears?

CONCERNING THE NOSE

  • Have you noticed any coughing, sneezing, or congestion?
  • Has your pet had a bloody nose?
  • Have you observed any nasal discharge?

CONCERNING THE MOUTH

  • Has your pet had any swelling of the lips and tongue?
  • Do they have any bleeding coming from the mouth?
  • What color are the pet’s gums?
  • Can you see any foreign objects like bones or sticks stuck anywhere in the mouth?
  • Can your pet open and close the mouth normally?
  • Does your pet seem to be in any pain eating or opening and closing the mouth?
  • Have you seen any extreme foaming or drooling at the mouth?
  • Can your pet swallow their food normally?

CONCERNING THE CHEST

  • Is your pet having a hard time breathing?
  • Have you seen your pet pant excessively?
  • Does your pet show any pain when you pet or touch the chest area?
  • Have they been coughing recently?
  • · Is your pet’s heartbeat steady?

· What is the heart rate? Put your hand or your ear on the left side of your pet’s chest. Just behind the elbow, you should be able to feel or hear the heartbeat. Count how many beats the heart pumps in one minute, or in six seconds and add a zero at the end.

CONCERNING THE ABDOMEN/STOMACH AREA

  • Has your pet been vomiting or having any diarrhea?
  • Can your pet drink and eat normally?
  • Does the pet’s belly area appear bloated or distended?
  • Does your pet show any pain when touching or rubbing the stomach area?
  • Is your pet one who eats and chews on inedible items, like towels, rocks, or clothing?

CONCERNING THE URINARY AND REPRODUCTIVE SYSTEMS

  • Is there any difference in your pet’s urination?
  • Is your pet crying out when urinating or straining to urinate?
  • Does your pet try to urinate often without any or with very little progress?
  • What does the urine look like and is there blood in it??
  • How often does your pet urinate?
  • Does your pet have accidents in the house?
  • Have you spayed your female pet?
  • Has your female ever had a litter? If so, at what age?
  • If your female isn’t spayed, when was your her last heat cycle?
  • Is there any discharge coming from the vaginal area?
  • Have you neutered your male pet? If so, at what age?
  • Has there been any discharge from the penis?
  • If your male isn’t neutered, have you noticed any swelling the testicles?
  • Has your pet been excessively grooming or licking the genital area?

CONCERNING THE MUSCULOSKELETAL SYSTEM – BONES AND JOINTS

  • Has your pet been limping at all?
  • Have you noticed any swollen legs or joints?
  • Has your pet been obsessively licking at one area of their legs?
  • Does your pet show signs of pain when walking?
  • Does your pet walk normally?
  • Has your pet been walking on their knuckles?
  • Does your pet drag their legs when walking?
  • Does your pet show any pain when you simply pet them?

If you answer these questions to the best of your knowledge, your vet will be in a much better position to be able to help the pet. Of course, additional tests might be needed to make a diagnosis, but answering questions can make a world of difference.

Signs That Your Pet May Be Ill

Pregnancy In Pets

PREGNANCY

The period of pregnancy, or gestation period, dogs and cats go through is 59 to 68 days, with the average being 63 days. With dogs, their litter size can vary from a single pup to 17 in some of the largest breeds. With cats, their litters can vary from one to more than 10 kittens at once. Usually, litter sizes are smaller in very young and very old mothers. The largest litters are usually from mothers that are around three or four years old.

If you think your pet may be pregnant, consider these conditions that can be confused with pregnancy; false pregnancy, mastitis (inflammation of mammary glands), pyometra (uterine infection), mammary gland cancer, and swelling of the abdomen caused by fluid buildup or organ enlargement.

PREGNANCY SYMPTOMS

  • Nesting behavior. They may tear up bedding or papers in an attempt to put together a nesting area.
  • Mothering activity. Your pet may begin to protect and mother articles like toys or shoes.
  • Weight gain. This usually happens after week 4 of pregnancy.
  • Swelling of the abdominal area.
  • Swelling of the mammary glands. The mammary glands may even secrete milk or fluid.
  • Abnormal behavior. If your pet is showing signs such as a lack of appetite, lethargy, or has excessive vaginal discharge, make an appointment with your veterinarian immediately.

DIAGNOSIS

You veterinarian will likely recommend some diagnostics to make sure your pet is healthy and to confirm her pregnancy. These include:

  • A comprehensive physical examination and a complete medical history.
  • An evaluation of your pet’s behavior, potential mating episodes, and heat cycle.
  • Palpation of the abdomen. This is where your veterinarian will use a technique of feeling your pets belly to examine the internal organs. Fetuses can be difficult to feel at any stage, and almost impossible to feel until 26 to 35 days after impregnation.
  • Radiographs, or x-rays, of the abdomen. The skeletal structure of a puppy or kitten fetus can be visible on an x-ray 45 days after impregnation. A close estimate of how many newborns you are likely to expect can be told here. Radiographs will also show some abnormalities, like irregular accumulation of fluid or organ enlargement.
  • An ultrasound of the abdomen. Ultrasounds are great for the diagnosing pregnancy and checking on the health of the puppies or kittens. You can confirm pregnancy by ultrasound 21 to 24 days after breeding, and estimate litter size as well.
  • Tests for feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) and feline leukemia virus (FeLV).
  • Depending on the case, your veterinarian may advise other diagnostic tests that are not typically done with a normal pregnancy. These may include:
  • Blood work: Complete blood count (CBC) and biochemistry. A biochemistry will evaluate liver and kidney function. Unfortunately there are no practical blood or urine tests to see if your pet is pregnant or not.
  • Urinalysis.
  • Heartworm check.

TREATMENT

  • There is no real “treatment” for a normal pregnancy. Just see your veterinarian for regular check-ups when your pet is pregnant. This is to ensure continued good health of your pet and her litter.
  • Your pregnant pet needs to be properly cared for during pregnancy.
  • If you pet is having a hard pregnancy, a difficult time during the birthing process, or if you don’t want any future litters, you should get her spayed after the puppies are weaned and before her next heat cycle to prevent pregnancies in the future.
  • Make an appointment to visit your vet one week before the due date. That way the veterinarian can palpate, possibly to an ultrasound to check heartbeats, and compare puppy/kitten size with the pelvic canal size to anticipate any possible issues with the delivery.

HOME CARE

Since good nutrition is very important for healthy mothers and litters, you need to feed your pregnant or nursing pet a high-quality diet especially formulated for them.

  • During the first 4 weeks of pregnancy, nutritional needs change very little. However, these needs double during the last 5 weeks of pregnancy. Ask your veterinarian about your pregnant pet’s dietary needs. They may recommend vitamins or a special diet.
  • Since her abdomen is full of babies, it’s likely a pregnant animal will not feel like eating as much at one time. Provide an increased amount of food to her diet slowly in many small meals a day instead of all at once. In the last part of gestation, it’s particularly important to feed small meals frequently. Continue feeding your pet her proper, high-quality diet until all the babies have been weaned.
  • Pregnancy also increases the fluid needs of animals. Make sure they always have fresh water available.
  • Strenuous exercise for a pregnant animal may be harmful, but a moderate amount is recommended. Moderate exercise includes short walks and short periods of gentle play. At 26 to 35 days of the pregnancy, your pet should be exercised a half an hour a day, 5 days a week. Pregnant cats should be kept indoors, especially during the last couple weeks of gestation. This is for the safety of the mother cat and her kittens.
  • Check the rectal temperature of the mother twice a day from the 58th day of pregnancy and on if you would like to know when it’s almost time for delivery. Usually within 24 hours of going into labor, an animal’s temperature will drop a full 2 degrees. Their normal temperature is usually around 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit.

WHELPING (BIRTH OF THE PUPPIES)

Once you find out your dog is pregnant, you should start making preparations for her delivery. The more you learn about whelping, the more prepared you’ll be if anything should go awry.

  • You need to provide the mother a whelping box that she can get comfortable sleeping and lying in. That way, you can make certain the puppies will be born in a place you’ve chosen. It’s good to choose an area in the home that is familiar yet low traffic, to allow the mother solitude. The size of the box depends on your dog. The width should be about equal to that of your dog, including their tail, and 1 ½ times as long. It’s important to put a 1×4 inch rail about 4 inches higher than the bottom around the inside of the box. This rail provides a space that puppies can slip under so mom doesn’t accidently lay on them and smother them. This box should have sides about 8 inches high to prevent puppies from crawling out, and should be bottomless. Line the bottom with plastic, then paper, then with bedding.

Flannel is the best material to use in a whelping box. Puppies will nurse until they are tired rather than until they are full. A puppy constantly slipping while nursing will become tired faster, which leads to less nursing. Flannel sheeting provides good footing for the puppies while they nurse. This blanket should be stretched tautly and even tacked to the sides of the box. Bedding not stretched will be pawed at by the mother in order to make a nest, causing wrinkles that can cover and suffocate puppies. This blanket should also be washed daily.

  • During the first few weeks after the birth, provide a heat source in the whelping box. A trouble light above a corner of the box is usually good enough, but it really depends on the temperature of the room the box is in. Always be aware of the temperature inside the whelping box, which is perfect at 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the first five days after delivery. It is recommended that you attach a thermometer to the box. After day five, you can decrease the temperature of the box by a degree per day until it is room temperature. This can be done simply by raising the light.

QUEENING (BIRTH OF THE KITTENS)

Begin preparing for the birth of your cats kitten’s immediately after you learn she is pregnant. Learn as much as you can about queening so you are better prepared in case there are any problems with the delivery.

  • You need to provide the mother a queening, or kittening, box that she can get comfortable sleeping and lying in. That way, you can do your best to make certain the kittens will be born in a place you’ve chosen. Keep in mind that you know it is ideal that they give birth in their queening box, but that may not always be the place they chose to give birth. Cats need as little disturbances as possible during queening or they may delay labor, so choose an area in the home that is familiar yet low traffic, to allow the mother solitude. They should be able to feel comfortable and protected while giving birth.

A queening box can be made out of a cardboard box, laundry basket, pet carrier, or even a new, covered litter box (never an old, used litter box). Most cats prefer a queening box with some kind of cover or roof. Line the box with newspaper for absorbency and have plenty of soft blankets or towels for comfort. These should be washed daily. Always keep water and a small amount of food next to the queening box. It’s also recommended to keep your cat’s litter box somewhere near, but not too close, to the queening box.

Pregnancy In Pets

Pet Sitter Instructions

INSTRUCTIONS

To help you get the most out of your pet sitter, print and fill out the following instructions:

CONTACT INFORMATION

Your Name _____________________________________

Your Address ____________________________________

Phone # ________________ Cell # ____________

Emergency Vet # __________________________________

Vet Name ________________________________________

Vet Phone # _____________________________________

Vet Address _____________________________________

Your Contact Information ________________________

Other Emergency Information ____________________

Other Emergency Contact _________________________

INSTRUCTIONS

PET 1.

Name _____________________________________________

Description ______________________________________

Eats (Type of food) ______________________________

Amount ___________________________________________

Frequency__________________________________________

Food is kept ______________________________________

Likes to play ____________________________________

Likes to go out _____ times per day

Favorite toy _____________________________________

Favorite place to walk ___________________________

Leash is kept ____________________________________

Medications needed _______________________________

Special Instructions _____________________________

Important medical history ________________________

PET 2.

Name _____________________________________________

Description ______________________________________

Eats (Type of food) ______________________________

Amount ___________________________________________

Frequency ________________________________________

Food is kept _____________________________________

Likes to play ____________________________________

Likes to go out _____ times per day

Favorite toy _____________________________________

Favorite place to walk ___________________________

Leash is kept ____________________________________

Medications needed _______________________________

Special Instructions _____________________________

Important medical history ________________________

PET 3.

Name _____________________________________________

Description ______________________________________

Eats (Type of food) ______________________________

Amount ___________________________________________

Frequency ________________________________________

Food is kept _____________________________________

Likes to play ____________________________________

Likes to go out _____ times per day

Favorite toy _____________________________________

Favorite place to walk ___________________________

Leash is kept ____________________________________

Medications needed _______________________________

Special Instructions _____________________________

Important medical history __________________________

Pet Obesity

OVERVIEW

Over half of pets are considered overweight or obese, and according to studies, the number is climbing every year. It is the most common concern for pets in our society today when it comes to nutrition-related health.

The obvious, and most primary, cause of obesity is too much food and not enough exercise. As pet’s overeat without burning off excess calories, the calories become stored as fat. For some owners, it’s difficult to recognize that their pet has slowly become overweight until they visit their veterinarian for another reason. This creeping weight gain can be subtle and dangerous.

Sadly, pets that are overweight or obese may have difficulty breathing, walking, playing, exercising, and tolerating heat, just like humans.

DIAGNOSIS

Your veterinarian will give suggestions for weight loss. They should also recommend overall health examinations and tests along with possible diagnostic tests to determine the best, and safest, treatment for your pet’s obesity.
A diagnostic test will likely include:

  • A veterinary exam that includes a measure of body weight and a body condition score. A review of past body weight and its incline may be helpful in detecting a pattern in weight gain. It may even help identify a certain event or environmental change that relates to the weight gain.
  • Routine blood work that contains a serum profile and complete blood cell count. These and a urinalysis are needed to find out if there is any underlying disease. If these are normal, a weight loss program can begin. Otherwise, if the results show a problem, more diagnostics may be needed for further identification before a program can be safely applied.
  • An assessment of your pet’s complete daily caloric intake and exercise schedule. It’s important to calculate any and all food, treats, snacks, and table foods your pet ingests daily and see if their regular exercise balances it out. If the calories exceed the amount of energy burned by activity, it’s clear that this is the cause, or at least a great contributor, of the pet’s obesity.

TREATMENT

It is recommended to treat any disease that affects obesity.

  • You can easily lower your pet’s caloric intake by changing the type of food to a diet formulated for weight loss. Whether you change the type of food or not, it’s a good idea to change the amount you feed to the amount recommended by your veterinarian.
  • An increase in fiber or water intake may be needed to keep your pet satiated.
  • Increase your pets exercise activity. This can include long walks to vigorous play. A variety of leashes and toys are available to improve activities.

HOME CARE

Weight loss will only be successful if it is considered a family endeavor. Your family must all agree and admit that the pet is overweight and commit to the pets weight loss program. It might be a good idea to make just one person in charge of the feeding of the pet. Also, monitor how many treats the pet is getting. The family could even keep a log to keep track of food intake and exercise.

If your pet is obese, you need to change their food to a diet specifically designed for weight loss. If you simply change the amount of food you feed your pet, it’s not likely you’ll get a significant amount of weight loss. One way to find out the right amount to give your pet is by checking the bag to see if they have a measurement specifically for overweight pets. However, the best thing to do is consult your veterinarian for advice. Treats should be minimized as well. The best treats to give an overweight pet is something light, like air popped popcorn or pieces of vegetables (like carrots).

Medical progress exams with your veterinarian are very important to keep up with every 4 to 6 weeks to monitor weight loss. Adjustments to the feeding plans are often needed and, as your pet approaches their ideal body weight, caloric intake will need to be reduced further to maintain the weight loss.

The majority of pets will need an 8-12 months weight loss program to get to their ideal weight. This can only be achieved when the owners and all family members are committed to improving their pet’s health. When the pet reaches their goal, most owners will continue to feed them the weight management diet, but at a larger food dose. That way the pet maintains their ideal weight.

Recommendations depend on the underlying disease. For obesity due to:

  • Excessive caloric intake. After the pet’s ideal weight is reached, the low-calorie diet should be continued, treats should keep being regulated, and the exercise program should continue.
  • Diabetes mellitus. Medical progress exams are needed to monitor insulin dose and effectiveness, and to measure any changes in the pet’s weight.
  • Hypothyroidism. Medical progress exams are needed to keep track of thyroid dose and effectiveness, and to measure any changes in the pet’s weight. If the pet is losing weight, blood thyroid levels should be checked as well.
  • Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease). Medical progress exams are needed to monitor medical management, and to measure any changes in the pet’s weight.

IN-DEPTH INFORMATION

Obesity in pets more commonly is due to over-eating than disease, but whether your pet is obese due to an overfeeding problem or an underlying disease, in the end they are still consuming more calories than they are using. These excess calories are stored as fat by the body.

Some other causes of obesity are due to a changed energy metabolism. The following are diseases that contribute to obesity:

  • Diabetes mellitus. Overweight and obese animals will become insulin resistant. The early signs of diabetes mellitus in an animal are an increase in hunger, thirst, and urination. The pet will eventually lose weight as the disease progresses.
  • Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease). This disease happens when the pet’s adrenal glands produce too much of the hormone cortisol. Pet’s with Cushing’s don’t usually gain weight, but will have fat redistributed to the abdomen, causing a pot-bellied appearance that looks like weight gain.

You want to talk to your veterinarian if you think your pet is overweight, experiences difficulty breathing, exercising or getting comfortable. They will be able to determine if any of these abnormalities are present before beginning a weight loss program.

IN-DEPTH DIAGNOSIS

Your veterinarian will want to perform diagnostic tests on a pet that is overweight or obese to determine if there are any underlying problems. These include:

  • A comprehensive physical examination with a precise measure of body weight and a judgment of body condition score.
  • Review of your pet’s intake of food, treats, and table scraps daily along with exercise.
  • Routine blood work that will show a serum profile, complete blood cell count, and urinalysis. With normal blood work results, the obesity is likely the result of excessive calorie intake, and reduced energy use. However, if the test results are abnormal and indicate a problem, more tests would be needed for an accurate diagnosis. These additional tests may include:
  • Urine cortisol:creatinine ratio. The disease Hyperadenocorticism should be suspected with a high ratio.
  • ACTH stimulation test. For a better diagnosis, an adrenocorticotrophic hormone stimulation test is used.
  • Low dose dexamethasone test. This test gives the doctor a definitive diagnosis of hyperadenocorticism and is used in concert with the urine cortisol:creatinine ratio and an ACTH stimulation test.

IN-DEPTH TREATMENT

Before you start your pet on any kind of exercise plan, make sure you talk to your vet to rule out any major disease that could be causing the obesity.

Recommendations for obesity due to excessive caloric consumption:

  • Change your pet’s caloric intake to 50 percent less than what your pet needs for his ideal body weight.
  • Here is an idea what to check on the food before you buy it:
  1. less than 340 kcal per 100 grams of food on a dry matter basis
  2. between 5 to 10 percent fat for dogs, 7 to 12 percent fat for cats
  3. between 10 to 30 percent crude fiber
  4. reater than 25 percent crude protein for dogs, greater than 35 percent crude protein
  • Keep our pet on this diet with the prescribed amount numerous times daily.
  • Give treats sparingly only as directed. It’s best to use low calorie treats or vegetables.
  • Increase your pet’s daily exercise.
  • Swimming is an excellent way for a pet to lose weight and it also helps patients with orthopedic disabilities, so try to get them to swim.
  • Visit your veterinarian monthly for a medical progress exam and so any adjustments to the diet or exercise can be made.

Recommendations for obesity due to diabetes mellitus:

  • When controlling diabetes, a special diet will most likely be required. The new pet food should have a moderate level of fiber (5 to 10 percent) with lowered levels of readily available carbohydrates.
  • Insulin treatments will vary depending on the patient.
  • Sometimes in patients with diabetes, a pet will lose weight. This usually means the clinical signs of diabetes are no longer there and treatment is unnecessary.
  • Recommendations for obesity due to hyperadenocorticism:
  • Any pet with ACTH need to do medical progress exams every 3 to 4 months. The treatment will usually involve maintenance medication doses.
  • Generally, a weight loss program is unnecessary to arrive at an ideal body weight.

Pet Obesity

New Puppy Plan

PRE-BOARDING CHECK LIST

Information for New Puppy Owners

Getting a new puppy can be an exciting and scary endeavor. One of the most important parts of your puppies first few months is proper veterinary care. This includes vaccinations, fecal exams, deworming, and spaying/neutering if you desire. Vaccinations are important to prevent many diseases that our pets are exposed to on a daily basis. Fecal exams and deworming make sure that your pet does not have any intestinal parasites (including worms, giardia, etc.). Besides being a determent to your pet, many of these parasites can be spread to humans – especially children. Here is a basic list of veterinary care your pet should receive in the first 6 months:

First Puppy Examination (6 weeks old):

  • Comprehensive physical examination
  • Vaccinations: Parvovirus
  • Fecal Exam / Deworming
  • Discuss Behavior Training*

Second Puppy Examination (8 weeks old):

  • Comprehensive physical examination
    Vaccinations:
  • Distemper-Parvo Combo #1
  • Discuss Preventative Parasite Control – Begin Interceptor if Applicable*
  • Discuss Pet Food*

Third Puppy examination (12 weeks old):

  • Comprehensive physical examination
    Vaccinations:
  • Distemper-Parvo Combo #2
    Bordetella (Kennel Cough) #1
  • Rabies (1 year)
  • Additional Optional Vaccination – Lyme #1
  • Fecal Exam if not on preventative
  • Discuss Dental Care – Toothbrushing*
  • Fourth Puppy Examination (16 weeks old):
  • Comprehensive physical examination
    Vaccinations:
  • Distemper-Parvo Combo #3
    Bordetella (Kennel Cough) #2
  • Discussion on Spay/Neuter Options*
  • Discussion on Pet Insurance*

5-6 Months old:

  • Spaying or Neutering
  • Microchip Implantation

Begin T/D twice daily and Breathlyser*

*indicates accompanying handout

New Puppy Plan

Kenneling Your Pet

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

There are many varieties of kennels available to board your pet, from barebones to five-star fancy. Remember that the trimmings are mainly meant for owners since pets don’t really care about the look of their sleeping quarters. The most important thing about picking a good kennel is the safety and cleanliness of the facility, and the competence and friendliness of the staff.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A KENNEL

  • Your first step is to visit the kennel you plan to board your pet in. This will give you a chance to ask questions and check out the facilities. You’ll feel more comfortable leaving your pet there while you’re gone if you are satisfied with the answers to your questions and the set-up of the kennel.
  • Not just the cages and runs, but the entire kennel should look and smell clean inside and out. Sanitary conditions are very important to prevent the spread of contagious disease. The animals already boarding there should also appear clean and taken care of. The area where pets are walked should be routinely cleaned, leaving it moderately free of feces.
  • A dog’s need for exercise is important, but varies on the dog. Kennels should have a set schedule for walking the animals. Find out how often and how long the kennel exercises the boarders and if they’re permitted to wander and play free in an enclosed area. If you would like, many kennels offer extra exercise time daily at an additional charge. This is an excellent option if your dog is very active.
  • Inside the facility, there should be a variety of sizes of runs and cages adequate for all types of dogs and cats. Every cat should be boarded in his or her own cage and not have contact with other cats. They should have a room separate from boarding dogs so they don’t get stressed by the sight, smell, or sound of them. Indoor lighting should be adequate, especially if no natural light is available. The air should smell clean, not stagnant, and there should be proper ventilation. Stagnant air can significantly increase the chance of disease transmission.
  • ***Cats are a little more difficult to provide stimuli to since they can’t be walked. Many kennels have cages especially for cats that provide levels to climb and perch on. Sometimes kennels even provide scratching posts or carpeted areas. These will make her stay a bit more comfortable.
  • It’s good to know about how many animals are usually boarding at the facility at once, and how many staff members are usually there to take care of them. With many staff member and fewer animals, the pets are more likely to get extra attention.
  • Ask the staff about how a sudden illness or injury is handled and treated. Sometimes boarding facilities have association with certain veterinarians, and sometimes a veterinarian’s office has a boarding facility attached. If you prefer a specific veterinarian, communicate that with the kennel owner/manager.
  • If your pet is taking medication, make sure the kennel staff is able to administer it as often as needed. Sometimes kennels don’t have the hours or staff needed to medicate your pet properly.
  • Many kennels offer grooming as well. Consider getting your pet groomed the day before, or the day of, their scheduled departure. It’s always nice to pick up your pet when they are feeling and smelling fresh and clean.

KENNEL REQUIREMENTS

  • Let the kennel know if your pet has a medical problem they are currently being treated for. This way you’ll know if they are comfortable boarding your pet, and they can keep an eye on them. All pets that are to be boarded should be healthy and free of contagious diseases. This keeps the other pets and the staff safe.
  • A kennel may need you to get your pet a health certificate from your veterinarian. They should always require proof of your pet’s most recent vaccinations, either through a phone call or a print out.
  • If your pet is a carrier of parasites like fleas or worms, they should be treated for it before coming to the kennel or at the time they board the kennel.
  • ALWAYS make sure you are aware of the required vaccinations the facility you plan to board. Some kennels require different vaccines, so don’t assume that your pet’s current vaccines meet every facility’s requirements.
  • Most kennels require canine DHLPP yearly and kennel cough (bordetella) vaccinations every six months. The requirement for the rabies vaccine is according to the law in your state.
  • Most kennels require feline FVRCP vaccinations to be given either every year or every three years. The requirement for the rabies vaccine is according to the law in your state.

WHAT YOU SHOULD BRING TO THE KENNEL

  • If your pet needs a special diet, communicate this with the kennel staff and even write down feeding instructions for them. Either way it’s best to bring in your pet’s own food. An abruptly changed diet can cause stomach upset and diarrhea, especially combined with the stress of a new environment.
  • Some cats can be disinclined to use a new kind of litter, so it may be a good idea to bring in their usual type if they are especially nervous in strange environments.
  • Ask the kennel if it’s alright to bring in a special bed or favorite toy for your pet. Sometimes, familiar items can make your pet a bit more comfortable.
  • Make sure you give the kennel several contact numbers in case of an emergency. After you provide the main number you can be reached at while you’re away, give them a friend or relatives number. Make sure they are someone you’re comfortable with making emergency decisions if needed. Talk to your other contacts about your preferences in possible emergency situations before you leave. Whether the kennel has their own veterinarian or not, provide them with your preferred veterinarians number. This is especially handy if your pet has any previous or ongoing medical issues.
  • While boarding, your pet should keep getting any medication they get regularly at home. Don’t forget to bring the medication with your pet to the kennel. Let the kennel know what the issue is and write down any specific instructions if needed.

Kenneling Your Pet

Hot Spots In Dogs

ACUTE MOIST DERMATITIS (HOT SPOTS) IN DOGS

Acute moist dermatitis is one of the most common canine skin disorders. Also referred to as hot spots, it appears as an intensely itchy, painful and swollen patch of skin that is warm to the touch. Hair loss in the affected area is common. The skin develops a plaque-like appearance that may weep. The infection progresses as the dog licks and chews the area, which becomes moist with pus and gives off a foul odor.

Hot spots appear as a secondary infection caused by self-induced trauma. They can be found anywhere on the body, and frequently in more than one spot. While some breeds are more prone to hot spots than others, especially those with heavy, hairy ears or coats, any breed of dog is susceptible to developing the infection. Golden Retrievers, Saint Bernards, Rottweilers, German Shepherd Dogs, and Labrador Retrievers are the most susceptible to hot spots, which may occur during the shedding cycle when moist, dead hair is trapped against the skin. Other underlying causes include fleas, mites, or other skin parasites. Skin allergies, food allergies, allergies to flea bites, and other skin irritants may also lead to scratching and trauma. Ear or anal gland infections or a lack of grooming may also be responsible for hot spot infections. Hot, humid weather may worsen the condition. The affected area is often so intensely itchy that skin damage may occur in a matter of hours.

Since hot spots can be very painful, the dog will usually be anesthetized or sedated to allow the veterinarian to clip away the hair and examine the skin. The skin may be scraped to test for yeast or bacterial infections. Once the area is exposed, the skin will be cleaned with a chlorhexidine or diluted povidone iodine shampoo, followed by the application of an antibiotic cream or powder. Oral antibiotics are usually prescribed. The dog may also be given oral corticosteroids to control itching and be required to wear a cone collar to prevent further damage. In addition to treating the hot spots, the underlying condition must also be identified and treated to prevent reinfection.

Hot Spots In Dogs