UNDERSTANDING THE FLEA

For millions of pets and people, the tiny flea is a remorseless enemy. The flea is a small, brown, wingless insect that uses specialized mouthparts to pierce the skin and siphon blood.

When a flea bites your pet, it injects a small amount of saliva into the skin to prevent blood coagulation. Some animals may have fleas without showing discomfort, but an unfortunate number of pets become sensitized to this saliva. In highly allergic animals, the bite of a single flea can cause severe itching and scratching. Fleas cause the most common skin disease of pets – flea allergy dermatitis.

If your pet develops hypersensitivity to flea saliva, many changes may result.

• A small hive may develop at the site of the fleabite, which either heals or develops into a tiny red bump that eventually crusts.
• The pet may scratch and chew at himself until the area is hairless, raw and weeping serum (“hot spots”). This can cause hair loss, redness, scaling, bacterial infection and increased pigmentation of the skin.

Remember that the flea spends the majority of its life in the environment, not on your pet, so it may be difficult to find. In fact, your pet may continue to scratch without you ever seeing a flea on him. Check your pet carefully for fleas or for signs of flea excrement (also called flea dirt), which looks like coarsely ground pepper. When moistened, flea dirt turns a reddish brown because it contains blood. If one pet in the household has fleas, assume that all pets in the household have fleas. A single flea found on your pet means that there are probably hundreds of fleas, larva, pupa and eggs in your house.

If you see tapeworm segments in your pet’s stool, he may have had fleas at one time or may still have them. The flea can act as an intermediate host of the tapeworm, Dipylidium caninum. Through grooming or biting, the animal ingests an adult flea containing tapeworm eggs. Once released the tapeworm grows to maturity in the small intestine. The cycle can take less than a month, so a key to tapeworm prevention is flea control. Anemia also may be a complication of flea infestation especially in young kittens and puppies.

THE LIFE CYCLE OF THE FLEA

The flea’s life cycle has four stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult.

• Eggs. The adult flea uses your pet as a place to take its blood meals and breed. Fleas either lay eggs directly on the pet where they may drop off, or deposit eggs into the immediate surroundings (your home or backyard). Because the female may lay several hundred eggs during the course of its life, the number of fleas present intensifies the problem. The eggs hatch into larvae that live in carpeting, cracks or corners of the pet’s living area.

• Larvae. The larvae survive by ingesting dried blood, animal dander and other organic matter.

• Pupa and adult. To complete the life cycle, larvae develop into pupa that hatch into adults. The immediate source of adult fleas within the house is the pupa, not the pet. The adult flea emerges from the pupa, then hops onto the host.
  This development occurs more quickly in a warm, humid environment. Pupa can lie dormant for months, but under temperate conditions fleas complete their life cycle in about three weeks. The inside of your home may provide a warm environment to allow fleas to thrive year round.

FIGHTING THE FLEA

WHAT SHOULD YOU FEED?

Your dog recognizes that what’s on your plate is a great deal better than what is in his bowl, and you’ll probably be tempted to prove it to him by giving him a taste. Before you do, keep in mind that a balanced diet with complete nutrition is essential for a healthy dog. Therefore, your dog’s caloric intake should be monitored carefully.

Your dogs nutritional needs include plenty of fresh water and good quality food. Your dog’s food should be fed in amounts that are enough to meet his energy requirements. Too little or too much is equally unhealthy.

A lot of the dry dog foods out there are rice, corn, or soybean based. You’ll know the higher quality brands by the first ingredient listed being meat or fish meal. These foods will naturally be higher priced because you’re getting higher quality, but they are definitely worth looking into. Dogs tend to eat less of a food that is higher quality, so that helps reduce the cost. Dry food also contains a greater caloric density, meaning less water, than wet foods. This is okay for smaller dogs, but larger dogs may have trouble getting the calories they need to support their energy output since they would have to eat so much of it. The type of food you give your dog is a personal choice, but it’s recommended to give larger dogs (over 30 pounds) dry or semi-moist food.

Carbohydrates, fats, and proteins are needed for energy. The amount required can depend on not just the size of the dog, but the medical history, activity, and stress level of the dog. An outdoor dog is likely to get more exercise than an indoor one. This means they will require more protein and fat to produce energy. Also, different life stages and certain special situations require different amounts of nutrients. A pregnant and nursing dog’s caloric needs are going to be greater than a regular adult, and a working dog will need more calories than a couch potato.

The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) publishes regulations for nutritional adequacy of “complete and balanced” cat and dog foods. Your pet’s food should at least match to minimal AAFCO values. Pet diets that meet the standards of the AAFCO will have “formulated to meet the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profile for (a given life stage)” printed on the label.

RECOMMENDATIONS

• AAFCO Standards: Check the label of any foods to make sure they conform to AAFCO standards.
• Food: It’s your choice whether you want to feed your dog dry, moist, or semi-moist dog food. If your dog is 30 pounds or more, it’s recommended you feed dry or semi-moist food to be sure your dog is able to get the right amount of calories.
• Water: Always supply plenty of fresh water.

YOUR DOG’S AGE

• Puppies (less than 8-9 months): Always feed your puppy a consistent, high-quality canned, dry, or semi-moist food with a label that states “puppy” diet. If your puppy is over 30 pounds, it’s recommended you feed them dry or semi-moist food for a better caloric density.
• For adult dogs (8-9 months to 6 years): Always feed your adult dog a consistent, high-quality canned, dry, or semi-moist food with a label that states it is an “adult” diet. If your dog is over 30 pounds, it’s recommended you feed them dry or semi-moist food for a better caloric density.
• For senior dogs (over 7 years): Always feed your senior dog a consistent, high-quality canned, dry, or semi-moist food with a label that states it is a “senior” diet. If your dog is over 30 pounds, it’s recommended you feed them dry or semi-moist food for a better caloric density.

CONSIDER YOUR DOG’S BODY WEIGHT

• Underweight: Make an appointment to see your veterinarian about the body condition of your dog. Consider switching your dog’s food to one with higher fat and protein and start feeding your dog 1 ½ times the amount of food you usually feed him.
• Lean: There are many healthy dogs, especially active young males, who are a little bit thin. Consider giving them 25% more food than usual. Weigh your dog every week to keep track of their progress.
• Chubby: It’s a good idea to increase your dogs daily exercise routine if your dog is a little bit overweight. If your dog is not limited by a medical condition, gradually increase his exercise over a period of 2 weeks. If no progress is made, cut out all treats, except vegetables, and decrease their usual amount of food by 25%.
• Fat or obese: If your dog is not limited by a medical condition, increase their exercise slowly over a period of 2 to 3 weeks. Completely cut out all treats except vegetables. Switch your dog to a low-fat, high fiber diet and reduce the total daily food amount by 25-40%. Call your veterinarian to talk about your dog’s diet and ask about any prescription diets they recommend. These diets can be very effective in providing the right nutrition and keeping the calories down.

MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Be careful when adjusting your dog’s diet and exercise. Make sure you talk to your veterinarian before changing the diet of a dog with liver, kidney, heart, bladder, or intestinal problems. If your dog has allergy issues, certain metabolic diseases, or other medical conditions, they may also need a special diet.

DAILY EXERCISE RECOMMENDED

Exercise is as important for your dog as it is for you. Young dogs and healthy adults alike need lots of it, and even senior pets need a regular daily workout to maintain their health. The type of exercise you choose depends on the age and fitness of your dog and your own lifestyle. Dogs are adaptable and are happy to play Frisbee in the park or take long walks in the neighborhood.

Exercise is one of the best ways to spend time with your pet. It’s especially important for large breed, working, and active breed types. Dogs are wonderful athletes and most adapt to even strenuous exercise, provided they have had adequate opportunity to “train” and the environmental conditions are not too extreme.

RECOMMENDATIONS

Daily exercise is recommended unless the weather is especially dangerous or a medical problem limits your dog’s activity. If there is a medical problem, consult your veterinarian about exercise limitations. Keep in mind that obese dogs and those with heart and lung diseases may have a problem, and be sure to consult your vet before starting a new regime.

Be certain your dog has plenty of water available at all times, and provide a place to cool down out of the sun. When the temperature drops below freezing, exercise should be limited, unless your dog is really used to this weather. This will often vary with the breed and hair coat. If the wind picks up to more than 10 mph, be careful to prevent hypothermia or frostbite. If your dog is shivering, get him back indoors or in some form of warm shelter. If you live in an area that gets cold and icy, remember that road salt can burn your dog’s feet. Don’t forget: even in cold weather, an exercising dog needs plenty of water.

Almost all dogs, especially those with heart and lung problems and those with thick hair coats, are likely to have trouble with hot and humid conditions. It’s better to exercise in the early morning or evening when the heat is less than 80 degrees and the humidity is less then 30 percent (avoid hot and humid conditions).

Coprophagia is the practice of eating stool (feces). There’s nothing more disgusting to a dog owner than seeing their dog eat its own or another dog’s stool, and then to have the dog saunter up, tail wagging, looking for a kiss and a few kind words.

“Why on earth would dogs do such a repulsive thing?” an owner might ask. What on earth is the attraction in this behavior? We may never know for sure but we do have an inkling about what initiates the behavior and can surmise how and why it continues.

THE FACTS ABOUT COPROPHAGIA

Coprophagia is not an abnormal behavior for canines in certain situations. Bitches naturally consume their own pup’s feces – presumably, to keep the nest clean. This behavior provides a survival benefit as it prevents unhygienic conditions from developing in the nest; a state of affairs that could lead to disease. The biological drive to eat feces, which is implanted as a survival instinct, compels nursing bitches to ingest their pups’ feces.

In addition, many puppies go through an oral stage in which they explore everything with their mouths, sometimes ingesting a variety of non-food items, including feces.

As time goes by, the majority of pups eventually learn that food tastes better than feces and they swear off the stool-eating habit for the rest of their lives. Some older puppies may continue to eat feces for a few months, but most grow out of the habit after the first year.

Barring nursing bitches, the majority of “normal” adult dogs have absolutely no interest in eating feces.

WHEN COPROPHAGIA IS A PROBLEM

Slow learners, “oral retentives,” and pups in which habits are easily ingrained may continue to engage in coprophagia well beyond the accepted “norm” and may engage in it to excess. Such hard-core coprophagics continue the behavior long after their peers have developed new interests. Dogs like this, that seem addicted to the habit, may best be described as “compulsive.”

Below is a list of possible contributing factors though more than one may be operating in any one case.

• The opportunity to observe the dam eating stool
• High protein, low residue, puppy food
• Irregular feeding schedule
• Feeding inadequate amounts of food
• Under-stimulating environment
• Constant opportunity to ingest feces
• Inadequate attention/supervision

VETERINARY CARE

DIAGNOSIS

Whether by nature, nurture, or a combination of factors, coprophagy rears its ugly head as a persistent and irritating habit that some long-suffering dog owners seem fated to endure. There are several different forms of coprophagy but, whatever form it takes, there are probably similar drives and predilections operating. Variations on the theme include:

• Dogs that are partial only to their own stool
• Dogs that eat only other dogs’ stool
• Dogs that eat stool only in the winter if it is frozen solid (“poopsicles”)
• Dogs that eat only the stool of various other species, often cats

THERAPY

There are some “home” remedies that have been practiced, but they rarely work. Here are a few:

• Adding Adolph’s Meat Tenderizer® or Forbid®, commercially available preparations of pancreatic enzymes, to the dog’s food
• Adding crushed breath mints to the diet
• “Doctoring” each stool with Tabasco® in the hopes of discouraging the dog from the habit
  The following strategies have met with more success, though it is important to note that results vary:
• Picking up all available stools (i.e. denying access)
• Escorting the dog into a “picked up” area and walking him back inside the house immediately after he has successfully passed a bowel movement and before he even has a chance to investigate the fruits of his labor
• Some dogs try to circumvent their owner’s control by eating the stool as it emerges and for these incorrigible few a muzzle may be necessary
• Changing the dog’s diet and feeding schedule so that high fiber rations are fed frequently and perhaps by free choice. A diet that contains 10 percent fiber is a good option. It may work by allowing the dog to eat to satiation without gaining weight, or it may alter the texture of the dog’s stool, making it less palatable. Dry food seems more effective than wet food in curtailing coprophagia
• Lifestyle enrichment is also helpful. Make sure your dog has plenty of exercise and spends plenty of quality time with you each day. Some dogs respond when a “Get a job program” is implemented. Such a program is designed to encourage the dog to exercise his natural tendencies by means of activities like chasing, fetching, walking, pseudo-hunting, fly ball, agility training, etc.

• Teach the LEAVE IT command
  Although some of the above measures have occasionally been found effective on their own, it best to apply a whole program of prevention for at least six months to nip the behavior in the bud. If during this time, if the dog gets access to stool and ingests it, some ground will be lost. Hopefully, though, progress will eventually be made, even if it’s one step back for every two forward.

Despite all these modifications in environment and training, some dogs persist in the habit of coprophagia. For these dogs, the compulsive disorder diagnosis may be worth considering. Some obstinate cases respond to the judicious use of human anti-depressants.

Although controversial, the obsessive-compulsive disorder diagnosis seems to fill the bill, on occasion at least, and it meets a couple of the scientific criteria for diagnosis.

• Face validity: The dog appears obsessed with eating stool and compelled to ingest it.
• Predictive validity: Extreme, refractory, coprophagy should follow a genetic predilection, occurring more frequently in anxious breeds of dog. The latter appears to be true, as the condition seems to be more common in certain breeds (e.g. retrievers). Also, the condition should, and often does, respond to therapy with anti-obsessional drugs.

HOME CARE

In the majority of cases, coprophagy can be successfully treated at home by means of a combination of management changes (exercise, diet, and supervised outdoor excursions) and environmental measures, but be wary of the occasional medical condition that masquerades the same way (your vet can help rule out such conditions).

BARKING PROBLEMS

A dog barks for many reasons, some good and some bad. Barking can communicate things from a greeting, to a warning. A dog that barks every now and then is tolerable, but the problem lies in those who just won’t quit.

Some breeds were bred to bark, like beagles and Shetland sheepdogs. Dogs that rarely ever bark are greyhounds and basenjis. Barking is a form of communication that serves various purposes. It can be used to keep away, attract, share distress, and warn. Even people who are inexperienced with dogs can notice the difference between a muted woof of acknowledgement and a series of angry, aggressive barks.

Barking is most appreciated by owners when its purpose is to alarm. Dogs can be like a warning system, not just to warn us about possible harm, but to warn those who are potentially dangerous to us to keep away. The key is training your pet to bark when appropriate and turn it off when the threat has passed. Barking can become a huge problem to owners, friends, family, and neighbors when it is inappropriate.

WHEN BARKING IS A PROBLEM

You first need to understand why your dog is barking in order to figure out how to deal with the situation.

TO GET ATTENTION

Some dogs will bark as a way to get whatever they want from you. These individuals are pushy, spoiled dogs who persist on getting their way, insisting the spotlight and all the attention possible. The dog is usually acting up to be played with, sit on someone’s lap, be given food from the table, etc. Either way, it can be tough to ignore these barkers and easy to get irritated with them.

What makes a dog like this? In a nutshell, it’s conditioning. Everything our dogs do, we react to, even if it’s with disregard. This means we are training our dogs constantly through our actions. No dog will continue with an approach that doesn’t work, whether that tactic is crying, whining, or barking. Whatever produces the goods is what is reinforced. An attention-seeking barker is just that because their behavior has been praised with casual irregular support. There are tips to help eliminate this behavior, but it’s very important to remember that a dog barking for attention will usually try their absolute hardest before quitting. This means they will become louder and more intense before they realize it’s not going to pay off.

Withdraw attention. To the attention-seeking dog, any notice is better than no notice. Even scolding can be more appealing than being ignored. Pay no attention to the “bad” behavior and only respond with interest and praise when the dog is calm and quiet. Don’t make eye contact, touch, or speak to the dog when they are barking.
Bridging stimulus. A bridging stimulus can be used to hasten progress if the above strategy becomes tedious. This would be a neutral sound, like a clicker, that is done right when the dog begins with an outburst. It is an indication that you’re about to refuse to give them attention. With this sound, the dog will focus its attention on the consequences of its actions and, hopefully, speed up the realization that the negative behavior will get them nowhere.
Audible Punishment. Sometimes an audible punishment technique may work as a deterrent, but only with dogs that are not very sensitive. You can issue a simple command such as “No bark!” If that fails you can blast an air horn or use a “shake can” (a can with stones in it) to startle them.
Counter conditioning. Counter conditioning is training the dog to do something that is unsuited with his former conditioned behavior, such as barking. For instance, whenever the stimulus that previously caused barking occurs, like mealtime or relaxing on the couch, you can train your dog to lie down in their bed. There they will be given praise from you and possibly a food treat that is long-lasting. If the strategy works, the old, bad behavior is replaced by the new, calm behavior.

SEPARATION ANXIETY BARKING

Separation anxiety barking happens when you are not around, leaving the pet, or are about to leave. Here are the two types of separation anxiety barking:

The first type is an acute type of barking that sounds hysterical. It usually occurs within minutes of the owner leaving and it signifies panic, or a cry for help. Sometimes it’s broken up by bursts of whining. The purpose is to attract attention from the owner, or anyone, so that their misery is recognized, and hopefully, alleviated.
The second type is a more chronic, monotonous barking. This is conveyed by dogs that have all but given up on solving their dilemma.
The treatment for the problem of the acute variety is the same as the treatment of separation anxiety because it is the source of the problem. As neighbors complain of the disturbance, owners only think of the behavior as their problem, not their dog’s problem. Chastisement of such behavior is a common and mistaken answer. Physical punishment, particularly after the behavior, is not only useless but is unproductive and inhumane.
When a dog’s barking simply becomes a release of anxious energy – a displacement behavior – it becomes the chronic, monotonous type of barking. This type usually indicates that a dog has been left alone for extended periods of time for years, and barely believes in its capability to call anyone’s attention to its crisis. Because of this, chronic displacement barking is a barometer of long-term suffering. The humane resolution for these dogs is to prevent them from having to experience such isolation and futility in the future by making arrangements. Training them to stop barking will usually not work and misses the point. Punishment is inhumane. Much more basic issues need to be addressed in order to fix the problem in dogs with this type of issue.

TERRITORIAL BARKING

Since one of a dog’s main duties is to protect their home, having one in the house is as good, if not better, than having an electronic alarm system. It becomes an issue, however, when dogs who are particularly enthusiastic continue to bark far longer than needed to inform their owners.

There’s a trick in training your dog to stop barking by acknowledging their warning. Saying “thank you” or “good dog” lets the dog know that you’re aware of their signal. If barking continues after you have verbally recognized it and thanked your dog, a command like “cease!”, “enough!”, or “stop it!” should be used afterwards to call an end to it.

Positive reinforcement should be carried out when training with the “stop it!” command. Treat or praise your dog immediately after, but only when, the barking has stopped for 3 seconds. This type of training may take a lot of patience until your dog will get the message. It’s a good idea to practice this training with a “volunteer visitor” who can ring the bell or knock, but doesn’t mind waiting outside for however long it takes as you go through the training.

A big problem owners face when attempting to train their dogs not to bark at the is that they are trying to juggle too many things at once; opening the door, greeting the stranger, and ushering them in at the same time as trying to control the dog. The only way to train correctly is to have a volunteer help you in training sessions so you are able to completely focus on handling your dog.

TRAINING SEQUENCE

Have the volunteer approach and ring the bell or knock. Your dog will bark and you reply with “Good dog, thank you.”
If the dog continues to bark, say “Enough!”
If the dog continues to bark, remain motionless and ignore the behavior. Your volunteer is to wait outside. This is where patience from you and your volunteer comes in.
When the dog finally stops barking, as they all do eventually, say “Good dog!” and present them with a food treat as a reward.
The volunteer will ring the bell or knock again, and the sequence is repeated until the dog is responding more promptly.
Remember to always finish a training session on a good note with a reward for behaving quietly. These training sessions should be repeated every day for many days until the dog stops their barking quickly (less than 3 seconds) and stays quiet as the visitor comes in.
If this method fails, your dog may need a slightly more direct approach. The recommended technique is using a Gentle Leader® head halter.

Initially, you need to train the dog to cooperate when wearing the head halter and not struggle. Plan a visit with your volunteer and have your dog wear the halter and attach a 10-foot training lead. When you’re in your training session and your dog starts to bark as usual, praise the barking then say the command “enough”. If the barking continues, apply a gentle, steady, upward grip to the lead. This causes the dog’s nose to elevate and transmit slight pressure to the dog’s muzzle and nape of the neck. Keep up the tension until your dog is relaxed and quiet, then release the tension. Even though you made the quiet behavior happen, praise your dog for it.

If you are consistent in applying tension to the lead, in turn pressure to the muzzle and neck, your dog will eventually learn that it’s pretty much hopeless to ignore your “enough” command. Using this powerful, yet gentle, training tool, you will intercede and take control of your dog’s behavior.

There is also a counter conditioning technique you can use with or without the head halter. As mentioned earlier, you can train your dog to do something that’s not compatible with the negative behavior. For example, you could train them to go to an out-of-the-way part of your yard or home and relax whenever a stranger appears. Don’t forget to reward them extremely well for this behavior.

If your dog is territorial and also reacting out of fear, some of the above measures may still help, but chances of success are more limited. These dogs can be so anxious and fearful towards strangers that they may never settle down, even after you have greeted the guest. These types of dogs should be put on a “total package” program where they are desensitized to strangers. It’s a good idea to start this kind of exercise on neutral ground so your dog will be less territorial.

REACTIVE BARKING

Some dogs will bark at anything that moves. It doesn’t have to be a stranger or even something living. These dogs will bark at passing cars, falling leaves, or icicles breaking off. They are on constant “red alert” and can be very hard to live with, especially if the degree of protection you need is very low to begin with. These dogs, perhaps by nature or nurture, trust nothing and no one and will view any environmental change as a threat.
The bad news is that we can’t persuade these dogs that their mission is pointless. The best thing you can do, with your vet, is address any medial contributions to hyperactivity, make sure they are on an appropriate diet, provide the right amount of exercise, and attempt to use the best physical control possible. This treatment is not unlike what needs to be done to control territorial barking. The only difference is that the application of this training may need to be more intense.

If the barking is partly due to a medical condition like hypothyroidism or attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), you might be able to fix it easily with your vets help. If it is not, however, you will have your work cut out for you. Always remember to try to enrich the lives of these reactive barkers so they are more likely to understand what is worth barking at, and what should be ignored. A natural, genetic drive for a dog to bark combined with our own mismanagement can create a very difficult situation. Such a dog may need medication along with behavior modification therapy to even make slight improvement. It’s best to act early to prevent such behavior development.