WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

There are many varieties of kennels available to board your pet, from barebones to five-star fancy. Remember that the trimmings are mainly meant for owners since pets don’t really care about the look of their sleeping quarters. The most important thing about picking a good kennel is the safety and cleanliness of the facility, and the competence and friendliness of the staff.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A KENNEL

• Your first step is to visit the kennel you plan to board your pet in. This will give you a chance to ask questions and check out the facilities. You’ll feel more comfortable leaving your pet there while you’re gone if you are satisfied with the answers to your questions and the set-up of the kennel.
• Not just the cages and runs, but the entire kennel should look and smell clean inside and out. Sanitary conditions are very important to prevent the spread of contagious disease. The animals already boarding there should also appear clean and taken care of. The area where pets are walked should be routinely cleaned, leaving it moderately free of feces.
• A dog’s need for exercise is important, but varies on the dog. Kennels should have a set schedule for walking the animals. Find out how often and how long the kennel exercises the boarders and if they’re permitted to wander and play free in an enclosed area. If you would like, many kennels offer extra exercise time daily at an additional charge. This is an excellent option if your dog is very active.
• Inside the facility, there should be a variety of sizes of runs and cages adequate for all types of dogs and cats. Every cat should be boarded in his or her own cage and not have contact with other cats. They should have a room separate from boarding dogs so they don’t get stressed by the sight, smell, or sound of them. Indoor lighting should be adequate, especially if no natural light is available. The air should smell clean, not stagnant, and there should be proper ventilation. Stagnant air can significantly increase the chance of disease transmission.
• ***Cats are a little more difficult to provide stimuli to since they can’t be walked. Many kennels have cages especially for cats that provide levels to climb and perch on. Sometimes kennels even provide scratching posts or carpeted areas. These will make her stay a bit more comfortable.
• It’s good to know about how many animals are usually boarding at the facility at once, and how many staff members are usually there to take care of them. With many staff member and fewer animals, the pets are more likely to get extra attention.
• Ask the staff about how a sudden illness or injury is handled and treated. Sometimes boarding facilities have association with certain veterinarians, and sometimes a veterinarian’s office has a boarding facility attached. If you prefer a specific veterinarian, communicate that with the kennel owner/manager.
• If your pet is taking medication, make sure the kennel staff is able to administer it as often as needed. Sometimes kennels don’t have the hours or staff needed to medicate your pet properly.
• Many kennels offer grooming as well. Consider getting your pet groomed the day before, or the day of, their scheduled departure. It’s always nice to pick up your pet when they are feeling and smelling fresh and clean.

KENNEL REQUIREMENTS

• Let the kennel know if your pet has a medical problem they are currently being treated for. This way you’ll know if they are comfortable boarding your pet, and they can keep an eye on them. All pets that are to be boarded should be healthy and free of contagious diseases. This keeps the other pets and the staff safe.
• A kennel may need you to get your pet a health certificate from your veterinarian. They should always require proof of your pet’s most recent vaccinations, either through a phone call or a print out.
• If your pet is a carrier of parasites like fleas or worms, they should be treated for it before coming to the kennel or at the time they board the kennel.
• ALWAYS make sure you are aware of the required vaccinations the facility you plan to board. Some kennels require different vaccines, so don’t assume that your pet’s current vaccines meet every facility’s requirements.
• Most kennels require canine DHLPP yearly and kennel cough (bordetella) vaccinations every six months. The requirement for the rabies vaccine is according to the law in your state.
• Most kennels require feline FVRCP vaccinations to be given either every year or every three years. The requirement for the rabies vaccine is according to the law in your state.

WHAT YOU SHOULD BRING TO THE KENNEL

• If your pet needs a special diet, communicate this with the kennel staff and even write down feeding instructions for them. Either way it’s best to bring in your pet’s own food. An abruptly changed diet can cause stomach upset and diarrhea, especially combined with the stress of a new environment.
• Some cats can be disinclined to use a new kind of litter, so it may be a good idea to bring in their usual type if they are especially nervous in strange environments.
• Ask the kennel if it’s alright to bring in a special bed or favorite toy for your pet. Sometimes, familiar items can make your pet a bit more comfortable.
• Make sure you give the kennel several contact numbers in case of an emergency. After you provide the main number you can be reached at while you’re away, give them a friend or relatives number. Make sure they are someone you’re comfortable with making emergency decisions if needed. Talk to your other contacts about your preferences in possible emergency situations before you leave. Whether the kennel has their own veterinarian or not, provide them with your preferred veterinarians number. This is especially handy if your pet has any previous or ongoing medical issues.
• While boarding, your pet should keep getting any medication they get regularly at home. Don’t forget to bring the medication with your pet to the kennel. Let the kennel know what the issue is and write down any specific instructions if needed.

A GUIDE TO GROOMING

Although it’s often overlooked, grooming is an important part of your dog’s health program. Routine brushing and combing removes dead hair and dirt and prevents matting. Because it stimulates the blood supply to the skin, grooming also gives your pet a healthier and shinier coat.

WHEN TO START

Start regular grooming when you first bring your dog home and make it a part of his routine. Purchase a good-quality brush and comb and get your dog used to being handled. Praise your dog when he holds still and soon he will come to enjoy the extra attention. Some breeds have special grooming needs, so ask your vet or a professional groomer for advice on particular equipment necessary for your pet.

BRUSHING

Your dog’s skin and hair coat reflect his overall health and nutritional status. Many dogs maintain a healthy skin and hair coat with minimal assistance; others – especially some long-haired or curly-haired breeds – require regular brushing. For most dogs, a good brushing once or twice a week will do the trick.

BATHING

The need for bathing depends on the breed of dog, his skin type and hair coat, owner preference and just how dirty your pet gets. Bathing your dog every month or two isn’t unreasonable, but some dogs will need more frequent cleanings. A good rule of thumb is to bathe your pet only when his coat gets dirty or begins to smell “doggy.”

When bathing your dog, make sure to rinse all the soap out of his coat. If he has persistent problems with scratching or flaky skin, he may need a special medicated shampoo or have a skin problem that your veterinarian should examine.

SKIN PROBLEMS

Skin problems – including fleas, ticks and mites or allergies and infections – are common among dogs. Most conditions are manageable with early detection and treatment. If you notice excessive scratching, hair loss or flaky skin, contact your veterinarian. If your pet is continuously exposed to fleas and ticks, speak to your veterinarian about products to minimize the impact of these parasites on the skin. Remember that a consistently poor hair coat with lots of skin flaking may indicate a deeper medical problem.

EARS

Ears may also require cleaning, especially in dogs with oily skin or allergies. This is a delicate task and is probably best left to your vet. However, if your dog is easy to handle (and there is no chance that you will be bitten), you can learn to do this chore yourself. To remove excessive wax and debris from the ears, consider an ear cleaning every two to four weeks. Ask your veterinarian about products you can use at home, and be sure to ask for a demonstration of proper ear cleaning techniques.

NAILS TRIMMING

While clipping nails is a painless and simple process, it takes practice and patience to master the skill. Ask your vet to show you the correct technique, then get started by getting your pet used to having his paws handled. Once you start using the clippers, go slowly: Try clipping just a few nails in one sitting. Maintain a regular schedule and be persistent. Your pet will eventually develop patience and learn to cooperate.

Learn the anatomy. Within the center of each toenail is the blood and nerve supply for the nail called the quick. In clear white nails you can see the quick, a pinkish area in the middle of the nail. Unfortunately, the common black nails do not allow an easy view. Cutting into the quick will result in pain and bleeding. You cannot see the quick on dark colored nails, making them more difficult to trim without cutting into the quick. In dogs with dark nails, make several small nips with the clippers instead of one larger one. Trim very thin slices off the end of the nail until you see a black dot appear towards the center when you look at it head on. This is the start of the quick that you want to avoid. The good news is that the more diligent you are about trimming, the more the quick will regress into the nail, allowing you to cut shorter each time.

Although you will take great care not to hurt your pet, sometimes accidents happen and you will cut into the quick. Have silver nitrate products on hand – you can get them at your veterinarian’s office or pet store. You can also use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. If that doesn’t work, apply a light bandage for about 15 minutes. If the bleeding continues, call your veterinarian.

Use the proper instruments – be sure to use only nail trimmers that are designed for dogs. Trim nails so that when the animal steps down, nails do not touch the floor. There are a variety of nail trimmers available at pet stores or your veterinarian’s office.

A good professional pet sitter is a true find. Instead of relying on a friend to feed your dog, walk him and spend an hour or so playing with him, you can relax while you’re away, knowing that your dog is in capable hands.

A knowledgeable sitter should be able to spot medical problems and handle emergencies – and make your absence less stressful all around. “The pet gets to stay in his own environment,” says Lori Jenssen, president of the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (NAPPS), which lists more than 1,200 members. “He gets to stay in his own house, his own bed. And he gets fed with his own food. And when you get home, your pet is there to greet you.”

In fact, she says, some animals get spoiled when their owners are away. “We spend a half hour, but that half hour is 100 percent with the pet. So, when you get home, they’re going to expect the same from you.”

CHOOSING A SITTER

All of this is good news for pet owners. But how do you choose the best sitter and make sure your pet gets the care you expect? Here are some tips from the NAPPS and other professionals:

• Make sure you’re making the right choice in deciding to leave an animal at home alone for most of your time away. For example, if your pet has medical or behavioral problems and needs close supervision, a kennel might be the best option.
• Ask fellow pet owners or your veterinarian, groomer or pet-supply store for referrals or look in the yellow pages. NAPPS’ sitter referral line is (800) 296-PETS.
• Know your price range. Sitters charge an average of $12 per half-hour visit.
• Ask questions. Is the pet sitter bonded? Does he or she carry commercial liability insurance? Ask for documentation. Is the sitter a member of a professional association? How long has he or she been in business? Does the sitter provide references? A service contract?
• Ask more questions. What is the sitter’s training background? How extensive is his or her knowledge of medical problems? Has the sitter taken pet health-care seminars or had any training through a pet sitters’ group, humane society or other organization? Does the sitter have a backup plan if he or she is unable to make it to your house?
• Expect questions. The best pet sitters will want to know all about your animal, its eating habits, toilet habits, grooming needs, exercise routines, medications, etc. The sitter should also ask for important telephone numbers.
• Have the sitter meet your pet in advance and watch how the sitter interacts with your pet.
• Always leave a telephone number where you can be reached and the number of your veterinarian. Call the sitter if you plan to return early or late.
• Make reservations – the earlier the better – and confirm a day or two before you’re planning to leave.
• Have your own contingency plan, especially during the winter in colder climates. Provide the pet sitter with the name of someone, maybe a neighbor, who can take care of your pet should bad weather or other unexpected circumstances prevent the sitter from getting there.
• Have plenty of supplies on hand.
• Inform the sitter of your pet’s special habits – favorite hiding places, for example, or phobias.
• Give the pet sitter detailed but simple instructions in writing. Leave a measuring cup, for instance, and indicate exactly how much Rover should be fed. A “handful” or “bowlful” doesn’t mean the same thing to everyone.
• If a pet sitter is not for you, you may want to consider kenneling your dog.

Information for New Kitten Owners

Getting a new kitten can be an exciting and scary endeavor. One of the most important parts of your kitten’s first few months is proper veterinary care. This includes vaccinations, fecal exams, deworming, and spaying/neutering if you desire. Vaccinations are important to prevent many diseases that our pets are exposed to on a daily basis. Fecal exams and deworming make sure that your pet does not have any intestinal parasites (including worms, giardia, etc.). Besides being a determent to your pet, many of these parasites can be spread to humans – especially children. Here is a basic list of veterinary care your pet should receive in the first 6 months:

First Kitten Examination (8 weeks old):

• Comprehensive physical examination
  Vaccinations:
• Feline Distemper-Rhinotracheitis Combo #1
• Feline Leukemia Testing
• Discuss Pet Food*
• Discuss Preventative Parasite Control – Begin Revolution once monthly if necessary.*
• Have owner bring fecal sample at next visit for analysis.

Second Kitten Examination (12 weeks old):

• Comprehensive physical examination
  Vaccinations:
• Feline Distemper-Rhinotracheitis Combo #2
  Feline Leukemia #1 (If outdoors)
• Rabies (1 year)
• Fecal examination; Deworm if unable to collect fecal.
• Discuss Dental Care – Toothbrushing*

Third Kitten Examination (16 weeks old):

• Comprehensive physical examination
  Vaccinations:
• Feline Leukemia #2 (If outside)
• Discuss Spay/Neuter Options*
• Discuss Pet Insurance Options*

6 Months old:

• Spaying or Neutering
• Feline Leukemia Testing and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus Testing
• Microchip Implantation

Begin T/D twice daily and breathlyser*

*indicates accompanying handout.